Weave of the Gods: The Real-Life Golden Fleece

Paleontologists tell us the camel family arose in thesurpassing 14,000 feet or 4300 meters) and the
North American Great Plains about 45 million yearscashmere-like fragility of its fiber. If you were to own,
ago. One group took the Bering land bridge into Asia tosay, a pair of trousers made of pure vicuña,
establish the populations of Bactrian camels andthey'd look and feel heavenly but unless you resolved
dromedaries, while the other chose the southern routenever to sit down in them you would quickly wear
through Panama when that land bridge rose from thethrough the seat. To strengthen it or make it go further,
sea about 3 million years ago. Several of thosethe Incas would often blend their vicuña fiber with
species prospered in South America, including thethat of the viscacha, an Andean rabbit-like animal; but in
guanaco, vicuña, Lama owenii, and Lama gracilis.any case by law only their royalty could wear such
Ancient humans likely witnessed the extinctions of theexquisite fabric.
latter two but, according to prevailing wisdom, bred theIn 1958 vicuña was on everybody's lips. President
domesticated alpaca from the vicuña and theEisenhower's favorite golfing buddy and Chief of Staff
llama from the guanaco. They prized the fleeces of allSherman Adams got the boot after reporters learned
four, but to them the most precious and magical wasthat he had accepted various sumptuous finery, most
that of the vicuña.famously a vicuña coat, from a certain Boston
Type Micronstextile magnate named Bernie Goldfine in exchange
Vicuña 6-13for some extra lenient treatment by federal regulators.
Chiru 7-9The scandal even engulfed future columnist Jack
Alpaca 10-28Anderson, who was caught bugging Goldfine's hotel
Merino 12-20room.
Cashmere 15-19Since as far back as the Spanish conquest, hunting
Guanaco 16-18and poaching has been stressing the vicuña to
Llama 20-40the brink of extinction. By the 1970s there were only a
Chinchilla 21few thousand left. But thanks to vigorous conservation
Human 15-200measures undertaken toward the end of the 20th
As you can see from the table above, only the chiru, acentury, most significantly on the part of the Peruvian
gravely endangered Asian antelope which is legallygovernment, their populations have recovered. In 2002
off-limits, rivals the fineness of its cinnamon-coloredthe U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service reclassified the
wool. Beyond that, vicuña is exceedingly rare duevicuñas of Argentina, Bolivia, Chile and Peru from
to the amimal's small size (about 90 lbs, yielding onlyendangered to threatened and legalized exports from
6-8 ounces of fleece every two or three years), itsthose four countries, subject to stringent
obstinacy (supremely evasive and disinclined to eat ordocumentation, for the first time in decades.
reproduce in captivity), its death-defying habitat (greatly