| A short while ago the election of Cristina Fernandez | | | | strike. |
| de Kirchner elevated her to the presidency of | | | | Whether the archaic social custom of closing |
| Argentina. Despite the overwhelming result that swept | | | | businesses or schools for two to four hours at midday, |
| the first elected woman into office following her | | | | or utility or other regular bills are invariably paid in |
| husband’s term as president, the country remains | | | | person by cash, these and other customs may be |
| at a political crossroads. The politics and economics | | | | quaint for the tourist, but they are inefficiencies that |
| and self-interest of Argentina are hedged between | | | | abound throughout the country. |
| leftist president Hugo Chavez of Venezuela and | | | | Perhaps some of these inefficiencies are designed |
| George Bush. | | | | purposely to maintain and increase employment. |
| More evenly dispersed wealth and prosperity for | | | | Perhaps some are reminiscent of an older, more |
| Argentina does not have to be elusive. The country is | | | | personable way of doing business. Some, perhaps, are |
| rich in resources and there exists substantial demand | | | | steeped in traditions where efficiency counts much |
| for its goods. However, increased and more equal | | | | less than relaxation and which have resulted in the |
| education seems indicated and overdue. A general | | | | classic Latin “manana” epithet. Whatever the |
| pause by the country as a whole to assess the | | | | reason does not stand the country in good stead for |
| willingness to absorb the tradeoffs required to achieve | | | | its competitive position in a global economy against the |
| a universal better state of living is more than overdue. | | | | materialistic leaders of the world. |
| Perhaps the new leader of Argentina will take that | | | | Despite rampant inefficiency and visible poverty, many |
| pause and properly act on that reflection.. | | | | visitors or potential expatriates to Argentina expound |
| After having spent nearly six months prior to the | | | | at length on its inexpensive and perceived more |
| election in Argentina, one thing is certain. No matter | | | | relaxed, cultural way of life. Often, daily problems with |
| how hard a new president may try to change matters, | | | | infrastructure or the local population are dismissed by |
| the facts seem to imply that the majority is too | | | | visitors with a shrugged shoulder. Many have to deal |
| complacent to welcome any major change from the | | | | with neither. For a few Argentine pesos, hotel or |
| status quo, vociferous noises from a vocal minority | | | | short-term apartment staff can generally |
| notwithstanding. One young person was overheard to | | | | accommodate the transient visitor by shielding him |
| say in seeming jest, “What this country needs is a | | | | from crime, corruption or inefficiency. |
| good war!” With the history of violence of several | | | | “Inexpensive” is certainly true of Argentina when |
| past governments, a wide gap between rich and poor, | | | | compared to Europe or the United States or even |
| as well as ingrained cultural patterns spanning centuries, | | | | many competing places in South America. This is most |
| such complacency should not be unexpected. | | | | definitely true after the currency devaluation less than |
| Nonetheless, from an outsiders’ perspective, certain | | | | a decade ago. Spending Euros or American dollars at |
| basics spell renewed disaster for the once-prosperous | | | | the official exchange rate easily permits one to |
| nation. | | | | overlook many of the vagaries of life in Argentina. |
| In a recent conversation with a bright, educated | | | | Cheaper black market rates, readily obtained from |
| Argentine student, the young fellow seemed to think | | | | mobile sellers on street corners, can make life even |
| nothing of leaving his country. In his early twenties, he | | | | less expensive. Focusing on the natural beauty of |
| intends to live, study, work and earn overseas and | | | | Bariloche, the colonial architecture of Salta or the night |
| save or invest his money in a country “that | | | | life and its tango in Buenos Aires is a simple process |
| works.” Little thought was expressed as to the | | | | for a transient visitor. Life in Argentina, however, is |
| wide and growing gap between the prosperous and | | | | certainly not inexpensive for full-time residents, trying to |
| impoverished denizens of the Argentine landscape. He | | | | eke out a living, even with a fairly decent job, any |
| provided a perfectly good example that the dwindling | | | | more than it would be in Lima or Santiago or Caracas. |
| middle class aspires only to join the “rich” as long | | | | Neither is life in this land of natural beauty any more or |
| as it can avoid sinking to the morass of “the | | | | less “cultural” or more relaxed than in London, or |
| poor.” The fact that Argentina’s problems have | | | | Paris or New York for the permanent denizen of |
| been even further exacerbated by more impoverished | | | | Argentina. From a tourist perspective, the quaint, small |
| immigrants from Bolivia, Peru and other South | | | | streets of Salta, bustling with humanity and traffic, may |
| American nations was explained away by suggesting | | | | seem to be like a picturesque Hollywood movie film |
| that, in his view, “Argentina needs a labor pool willing | | | | set. For the single mother of four, working as a |
| to accomplish unskilled labor others are not willing to | | | | part-time maid, however, everyday life is no easier |
| do.” | | | | than it is in Santa Fe, New Mexico, a cultural mecca in |
| Whether one agrees with the young student’s | | | | the United States. |
| perspective is somewhat irrelevant. One can agree or | | | | Few except those with disposable income in Argentina |
| disagree with his philosophy and potential course of | | | | neither know of an opera, been to an art exhibit, nor |
| action. Missing from the entire discussion, however, is | | | | heard a live symphony concert. Many have not even |
| the fact that only a miniscule “middle class” | | | | made the lengthy trip to Buenos Aires from their |
| exists in Argentina. As in other cultures, the term | | | | particular village in the vast country. Much the same |
| “middle class” is vague and imprecise. Yet, it is | | | | can be said, of course, of other nationalities who have |
| precisely the “middle class” and a functioning, | | | | never seen an art exhibit at the Louvre or Tate |
| private and governmental infrastructure that are two | | | | museums in France or London, attended a concert at |
| key elements that produced success in most of the | | | | the Konzerthaus in Vienna, nor seen a dance recital at |
| world’s advanced nations. Despite relative growth | | | | the Bolshoi in Russia although they may have lived in |
| in Gross Domestic Product, progress has often been | | | | the respective countries all their lives. |
| stunted in nations replete with a large, wealthy | | | | Much of Argentina’s mystique has been carefully |
| land-owning class, especially in Latin or South America. | | | | and skillfully cultivated by the tourist boards. The image |
| Although often disparagingly referred to as a | | | | is, in turn, mindlessly nurtured and perpetuated by the |
| “nation of shopkeepers,” England prospered | | | | casual traveler. Inefficiency becomes a more |
| from the times of Elizabeth I. It expanded most | | | | “relaxed” way of life, while a simple dance in the |
| noticeably following the times of Adam Smith and | | | | town square becomes “culture.” |
| other notable thinkers of the eighteenth century. It was | | | | More than simply dazzling the tourist with a |
| the formation and expansion of the middle classes, its | | | | broad-strokes display of natural beauty and a |
| manufacturing base, and its financial acumen coupled | | | | seemingly contented populace, Argentina seems more |
| with powerful colonial resources and inexpensive labor | | | | to cater to its well-to-do, short-term transients rather |
| that propelled England through the centuries.Wealth | | | | than to its own people. Fortunately, the transient visitor |
| filtered to the growing middle classes and a working | | | | hardly ever sees the seething resentment boiling just |
| infrastructure in England, as elsewhere in Europe, the | | | | below the surface veneer of smiles and politeness, nor |
| United States and now in China and India. The | | | | the petty crime and bribery lurking at the next street |
| phenomenon is evident world-wide. | | | | corner or with the sales clerk at a local business. |
| A working country’s civil infrastructure does not | | | | Before its collapse, the ancient Roman Empire was |
| have to be limited to roads and highways and other | | | | known for its policy of “Bread and Circuses.” |
| facilities, although the lack of these significantly impacts | | | | Certainly, Argentina seems to subscribe to that maxim. |
| any nation in past or present centuries. Infrastructure | | | | While the price of bread and other staples continues to |
| can be expanded to include a society’s ability and | | | | escalate in local shops or supermarkets, Argentina |
| willingness to provide communications and education, to | | | | tries to keep its citizens entertained by its |
| banking or medical care, and to a general freedom | | | | “circuses” through its extensive television |
| from governmental bureaucracy to impede | | | | channels. There is no dearth of television offerings on |
| entrepreneurship and the production and distribution of | | | | its many cable channels, from chat programs to quiz |
| goods and services. | | | | shows, to sports and movies to keep the populace |
| Argentina may reasonably boast of a classic | | | | entertained. |
| infrastructure. It certainly has thousands of kilometers | | | | Interesting, though, one can legitimately ask for whom |
| of maintained roads and highways, developed airports | | | | the telecasts are intended. Certainly, soccer matches |
| and docks, and public utilities. It has been in the | | | | and other competitions draw great local viewing |
| forefront of South American communications, banking | | | | audiences whether on off-the-air stations or the Latin |
| and medical care. Many of those services are owned | | | | version of ESPN. So do various movie channels. |
| by foreign entities. Why? Because there does not | | | | Yet, while nearly ninety percent of films aired are of |
| exist a strong middle class to undertake | | | | American or British origin, most of these are in spoken |
| entrepreneurial risks. The wealthy prefer to keep their | | | | in English, subtitled in Spanish. That may be wonderful |
| capital outside the country, while the poor are too | | | | for tourists or other foreigners whose first language is |
| uneducated and have little, if any, capital. | | | | English and who choose to take the pose of a couch |
| In addition, Argentina’s general production and | | | | potato at night. Unfortunately, it does little for native |
| distribution of goods and services, domestically and | | | | Castellano speakers, let alone the local indigenous |
| internationally, are predominantly hampered by a vast | | | | population whose command of Spanish is hazardous |
| and powerful bureaucracy that strives not for | | | | at best. Reading rapidly changing subtitles can hardly |
| efficiency, but rather for patronage and continued | | | | be conducive to learning English when it is far more |
| employment. | | | | interesting to see the action developing on the screen. |
| Beyond infrastructure, a country’s perception and | | | | Moreover, much of the population can ill afford the |
| self-perception are equally as important. These factors | | | | relatively modest charges for a television set or a |
| may have even more influence on the state of a | | | | cable hookup. |
| nation’s life than even the most advanced | | | | Maybe it is necessary to entertain the masses to |
| infrastructure. This self-perception and resultant | | | | keep them from exploding into chaos. Maybe such |
| philosophy may be often more responsible than the | | | | entertainment can offer a necessary respite to the |
| lack of certain economic amenities. It breeds a lack of | | | | everyday worker in whatever occupation. Maybe it |
| concern and indifference on the part of the population, | | | | allows a vicarious view of other cultures. Unfortunately, |
| rather than active and positive work and competition | | | | it may also breed envy and, worse, emulation of the |
| and accomplishment. | | | | violence so readily broadcast, especially by the |
| Despite the brave political words and a rebound from | | | | modern fare of Hollywood’s output. |
| the worst of economic shocks, default on its economic | | | | American television offerings of violence are hardly |
| debt, Argentina still suffers from a markedly | | | | conducive to the youth of Argentina that easily |
| decreased optimism and a widening gap in confidence | | | | succumbs to the greed or envy generated by the |
| in government. Although Argentina has spent the last | | | | silver screen. Worse, it only underscores the lack of |
| two decades free from civilian or military dictatorship, | | | | education in the classrooms. While Argentina may |
| people’s attitudes change slowly. Partly, this lack of | | | | have the highest literacy rate in Latin and South |
| optimism and confidence stems from Argentina’s | | | | America, according to most studies more than fifty |
| continuing practice of turning a largely blind eye to graft | | | | percent of students fail to continue their education |
| and corruption inside and outside of government. | | | | beyond the age of fourteen, the legal mandatory age |
| One simple but painful indictor of festering problems | | | | for leaving school. Since education, including the college |
| stems from the fact that the Argentine government | | | | level, is free for students attending government-run |
| continually runs short of ordinary coins in circulation. | | | | schools and colleges, one may properly ask why such |
| This shortage does not stem from lack of materials | | | | a large dropout rate exists. |
| from which to shape coins. Rather, it derives from a | | | | Once again, the overall picture of Argentina is |
| combination of a lack of confidence and graft. | | | | misleading. Despite the high literacy rate, the high |
| Recently, very small denominations starting with the | | | | dropout rate at an early age tells a different story. A |
| peso coins were actually hoarded by the population. | | | | recent Interamerican Development Bank report |
| Incorrect as it may be, there is apparently more faith in | | | | showed that the causes for a highly unequal outcome |
| coins than in paper money, not simply the opportunity | | | | between Buenos Aires students and those of rural |
| to make three to five percent profit on hoarding and | | | | areas results from both lack of high quality of school |
| reselling small change. Taxi drivers and small kiosks | | | | facilities and lack of skilled teachers and instructors in |
| repeatedly fail to have change available for the | | | | rural areas. Moreover, even Buenos Aires, the capital |
| smallest of purchases for these reasons, as do | | | | city known for its university with nearly 140,000 |
| government institutions like the post office or public | | | | students, is even more renowned for the more rapid |
| utilities. | | | | growth and enrolment of students in private, rather |
| In an economy based largely on cash transactions, | | | | than public schools. |
| rather than checks, debit or credit cards or electronic | | | | Since education is but one all-important factor in |
| banking, this attitude foreshadows only the tip of the | | | | Argentina’s development in the twenty-first century, |
| iceberg of problems confronting the country. Argentina | | | | one must clearly ask if the recent governments – |
| certainly has most of the necessary computer | | | | even after the devaluation – are inclined to |
| availability. Most large banks are well interconnected | | | | perpetuate the growing disparity between rich and |
| across the country. | | | | poor, spelling certain doom for the nation as a whole. |
| However, “most of the people would not know | | | | Yet that disparity is likely to increase if government |
| how to deal with automated banking, like paying | | | | lacks the will to change quality public education versus |
| bills,” one source offered. While that lack may be | | | | private education, such as in Buenos Aires and |
| ascribed in part to a poor educational system, it leaves | | | | Cordoba or Mendoza. |
| wide open the door to engage in tax evasion and | | | | Quality and success of education also derives from a |
| other forms of corruption. Inefficiency aside, long lines | | | | myriad of social factors, many of which result from the |
| inside a bank branch ironically seem to be positive | | | | disparity of income and the lack of a “middle |
| indicators of solvency, increases in cash and | | | | class” in the historic sense. Argentina would be well |
| employment to the general populace. That image of | | | | warned by the young man’s quip that the country |
| illusory prosperity may persist if one ignores the | | | | “needs a good war.” While no war from the |
| beggars, including very young children, lining the streets | | | | Falklands to Iraq can ever be termed a “good |
| asking for pesos. It does nothing for improving personal | | | | war,” no matter who the perpetrators, a growing |
| or national efficiency. | | | | disparity between rich and poor in Argentina makes |
| Remarkably, the majority of the population appears to | | | | just such an exercise a probability, whether as an |
| tolerate the long lines and general inefficiency in the | | | | outright war or a disguised dictatorship. Bread and |
| infrastructure with barely a sniffle. “Oh, it’s only | | | | circuses or a lack of change are only preliminary |
| Argentina,” one property-owning person suggested, | | | | indicators. Only the will and perception of the |
| trying to explain away whatever daily problems | | | | country’s people can make the difference. |
| occurred, whether simple plumbing or a citywide taxi | | | | |