Aruba - One Happy Island

When my husband told me he won a package tourbeach gazing at the turquoise water, we were reveling
trip for two to Aruba, I sure didn't knock him over within its warmth and translucency, the quality which
my enthusiasm. To me it was a Caribbean clichemakes for great snorkeling. Snorkeling is perfect for
without authentic exploration or adventure. Of course, Iwater-wimps like me because it has the illusion of
now understand that I was suffering fromgreat adventure, while being very tame. Down there
cold-weather dementia brought on by gray skies andwith the lemon yellow angel fish, I'm sure I wasn't the
freezing temperatures. In fact, it got so bad that I heardonly one in mask and fins who imagined herself an
myself complaining to a fellow New Englander, "Butintrepid diver in the deep.
we'll miss almost half of March!"Aruba offers plenty of organized water and land
Fortunately, my frost-fed hissy fit dissipated shortlyactivities. An early morning orientation session at a local
after our charter fight landed in Aruba. At the airport Icasino offered by GWV on our first full day was
did have a mild freak-out at the sight of a hill of burninginvaluable. Despite the hype, it was efficient: we were
garbage at the dump which overlooked the ocean.able to hear about sunset sails, jeep adventures and
However, this one eyesore soon faded away andsnorkeling trips and then sign up at a discount. One
was replaced by expanses of electric blue ocean thatfavorite was the Jolly Pirate, a 4 ½ hour
kept us company in the short tour bus ride to our hotel.snorkeling cruise with a crew of macho charmers
It's easy to excuse a few tiny blemishes on Aruba, theserving rum poison and lunch and showing us how to
"jewel of the Caribbean." Only 15 miles fromswing off a rope. ($55 per person) We also liked the
Venezuela, Aruba is small, only 20 miles long and aboutmore mellow sunset sail ( $40 per person ) with
7 miles wide. It's the most popular of the "ABC" islands,snacks and open bar. (Yes, virtually every activity on
(Bonaire and Curacao are B and C), a small cluster ofAruba has an open bar.) Most boat and land tours are
islands that form part of the Dutch West Indies andoffered by De Palm tours, the oldest and most
enjoy perfect, hurricane-free weather year round.established tour operator on the island.
With its strong economy, harmonious population of lessIt was on our DePalm bus tour that we got to see "the
than 100,000 and comfortable standard of living, Arubaother Aruba." ( Approximately $42 per person for half-
seems like a political paradise. In fact, it's got one of theday tour with snorkeling.) The Atlantic Ocean slams
highest literacy rates in the Caribbean and the averageagainst the rocky northern coast from California
Aruban speaks four languages: the official Dutch,Lighthouse at the northwestern tip down to San
English, Spanish and native Papiamento, a mixture ofNicholas at the southeastern tip. Cacti and aloe plants
African, Portuguese, Spanish and Dutch developed bydot the desert-like landscape which is cheered by the
the Curacao slaves in the 1500's to communicate withbrightly-painted homes. In Aruba, house color is a family
their owners who had fled the Spanish inquisition.affair; even the ornate above-ground burial crypts are
We enjoyed Aruba the way most tourists do, in apainted to match the deceased's home. Our bus tour
resort on the southern coast. Starting at the capital citytook us to the Natural Bridge, a coral formation that's
of Orangestaad near the western tip of the island,been pounded into a bridge by centuries of surf.
resorts extend all the way up a ten-mile stretch to theUnfortunately, what I remember most about the site
pricey high rises at the northwestern tip near Bocawas having to pay a quarter to use a filthy toilet
Catalina, a world-renowned wind-surfing spot. Aruba,without toilet paper. I guess that's extra.
nicknamed "One Happy Island," has plenty to amuseOur favorite site was Arikok National Wildlife Park with
and delight any taste. And, as we later learned, there'sits abandoned gold mines and pirate castle ruins. We
even some opportunity for true white-knuckledlooked at cave drawings and befriended a very tame
adventure."wild" donkey at this natural preserve which
But that doesn't come until later. First is the pureencompasses about a quarter of the island. As our
effortless fun of Aruba. GWV put us up at Lavintage tour bus bounced along on the dirt roads that
Cabana, an all-suite resort across the street fromcut through the vast park, our bus driver assured us
Eagle Beach, prized for its soft, sandy shore. (GWVthat if the vehicle did break down (which actually
offers 7-day trips in the summer starting at $1025 perseemed very likely at some points) we shouldn't worry
person ) The kitchen, living room, two TV's and phonesbecause "it is impossible to get lost in Aruba."
were overkill for our needs although we did use theA few days later when my husband and I were very
microwave for heating up the leftover snapper ordefinitely lost in our rented jeep in the middle of Arikok
wiener schnitzel. The concept of light dining - apartNatural Park, we remembered his words. We also
from MacDonalds or Wendy's - hasn't really sunk in,tried desperately to remember where that bumpy
and it's difficult to find anything less than a multi-courseroad was, since we had gotten way off track looking
dinner. The "Dine-Around Plan" we chose provided usfor a short cut to the Natural Pool, a swimming spot on
with seven breakfasts and four dinners at a variety ofthe northern shore. Our short cut turned into a dizzying
restaurants. ( $419 per person.) For breakfast it wasseries of washed out paths strewn with boulders the
well worth the few minutes it took to hop the bus tosize of washing machines. After two hours of fear,
one of the high-rises like the Marriott and the Arubadanger and a heavy dose of marital tension, we
Grand where we got a great view and the rare treatstopped to get our bearings and have the argument
of real milk and half-and-half. There are plenty of goatsthat had been waiting to happen. (You see, I had
on Aruba but no cows so what you usually get forinsisted we take this route.)
coffee is sweetened condensed milk the consistencyAfter a brief but satisfying fight we passed our
of latex paint.remaining 6-oz of warm water between us, watched
Speaking of goat, they serve a great curried versionthe sun sink and vowed teamwork. From our elevation
at Boonoonoonoos, a popular tourist spot inwe could see another garbage-burning dump - a
Orangestaad featuring Caribbean food and cheerfullynewly appreciated sign of civilization. "Boy, that dump
garish décor. The Jamaican Jerk Ribs werelooks beautiful to me now," my husband said. With
hot: 20 on a scale of 1-10. (entrees start at $ 21)clearer heads we decided to retrace out path. By
Another standout was the Villa Germania where yousome miracle, we eventually met up with an Aruban
can slurp down fantastically rich sauces alfrescowho was also lost but able to find the way out.
(entrées start at $23) while ogling the yachts inPlease dear reader, do not repeat our mistake. I
the harbor and the tourists on their way to the Casinolearned after our trip that off-road travelers are a big
next door.problem at the park. Park authorities are developing a
Most days involved beach time, usually under one ofmap and guidelines to help visitors enjoy the Arikok
Aruba's famous divi divi trees, low, stooped specimensPark and its dramatic rock formations, vegetation,
bent over from constant 15-knot trade winds. Theyprikichi (Aruban parakeets) and natural beauty without
provide shelter from the sun, which at 12 degrees frombeing an environmental pest or needing rescue.
the equator, is formidable. When we weren't on the